PANAMA JOURNAL

Panama is a country that is just on the verge of developing a robust tourist industry. As a result, it is a good time to visit since tourists are welcomed warmly by a friendly population. The country has not been ‘spoiled’ yet by wall-to-wall, all-inclusive resorts and prices are still reasonable and even cheap. It is very much like Costa Rica when I first discovered it in the late 80’s. Panama offers eco-tourism amongst its lush rain forests including visiting the indigenous peoples who still live a traditional life style there. As well, Panama City is the largest metropolis of Central America. It contains the remains of the old city of the 16th century burned down by the pirate captain Henry Morgan, the colonial city of the 17th - 19th centuries and the modern city between these replete with soaring skyscrapers of interesting architectural design. As a tax free port, Panama offers very good shopping. The Panama Canal is also worth a visit although those of us familiar with the St. Lawrence Seaway and even the more basic Rideau Canal aren’t as easily impressed by it as those without this experience. It is however an impressive engineering feat and will become even more so as its locks are doubled in the coming years.

The highlight of my time there was a visit to an indigenous village in the rainforest of mid Panama. The Embera tribe living here welcomes tourists as a way to offset the limitations to their hunting and gathering lifestyle resulting from the creation of a national park in the area in which they live. I must admit I was a bit cynical as to what I would experience, expecting the “Disneyfied” tourist shows of other areas where the natives shuck their t-shirts and jeans, don their traditional costumes, perform and then change clothes, hop in their car and go about their 21st century lifestyle. Not so here. The Embera live in their rainforest villages in traditional style as they always have. The villages host small groups of tourists for a few hours on only three days of the week and spend the rest of the time living as they have for centuries with a few exceptions as noted below.

We were transported by van into the depths of the rainforest and after some time came to the banks of a wide river. There on the banks of the river were 25-foot dugout canoes hewn from single logs. The men of the village were waiting to transport us to their riverside village. Some wore ceremonial, multi-coloured, beaded skirts that their wives had crafted for them upon their marriage while others wore only loin clothes. They also sported bandoliers of coloured beads and wide silver bracelets on each wrist. They shook our hands, welcomed us in Spanish and loaded us into the dugouts. The only part of the picture that jarred was the outboard motors attached to the rear of the dugouts. They had been purchased from the proceeds of their eco-tourism venture to allow us to reach their village more quickly. Given the mid 30’s temperature and high humidity, we were glad of the breeze produced by their speed.

After swimming in a clear pool and showering under a 50-foot waterfall in the midst of the rain forest, we were taken to the village where we were warmly welcomed. The village consisted of thatched huts raised on stilts with cooking platforms within and walls open at the top. The children came rushing down the hillside to greet us. We were taken to a large hut where we were fed a great lunch of local fish and plantain fried in oil and served in a banana leaf cone. The chief then explained their lifestyle through an interpreter and answered our questions. We also met with the local ‘medicine man’ who had just returned from harvesting medicinal plants from the forest. He explained their use to us and answered our questions via an interpreter. He works in conjunction with a more traditional doctor who visits the village regularly.

Other highlights of our time there included a visit to the two-room school house where a combination of government and traditional curricula are taught. We alsohad a chance to see their traditional music making and dancing and even partake in the latter and a chance to buy their handicrafts which helps support the village. The latter consisted of elaborate carvings, traditional silver jewellery and intricate bead works. As many mementos as I have from all of my travels, I couldn’t resist purchasing a beautiful carving of a sea turtle emerging from an egg fashioned in beautiful ivory wood.

We took our leave in the late afternoon and as we walked to our dug out we witnessed scenes of family life with kids, mothers and fathers relaxing on their porches, apparently glad to see us. No doubt as well they were probably glad to have a chance to resume their every day life of fishing, cooking, story telling, school and just relaxing in a hammock.